An entertaining and educational book about one man’s successful effort to revitalize Yemen’s quality coffee production. It stars a somewhat unlikely hero — Mokhtar Alkhanshali — an American of Yemeni descent growing up in San Francisco’s Tenderloin district who is initially depicted as a bit of a screw up but manages to accomplish what would be impossible for most.
This is a work of “narrative non-fiction” — it reads like a novel but is a “true story” (not based on a true story). It’s part education and part high adventure, giving every type of brain something to hook into. I learned an astonishing amount about the history of coffee production, the means of assessing “quality” coffee, the convoluted “seed to Starbucks” process, and a great deal about starting and funding a complex business. I also learned more than I ever knew existed about Yemen — its history, current political climate, and US immigrant community. All of this learning was encapsulated in an intriguing (i.e. not at all dry) narrative that was full of compelling characters, the ideal level of concept-supporting detail, and literal high adventure (Try to escape the country during a civil war! Crossing the Red Sea on a tiny boat! Getting out of Dodge while drowning in an ocean of bureaucracy!).
I particularly found the way he did business to be interesting — while not an admirable student, Mokhtar thrived in an entrepreneurial setting, supported by his social abilities and connections. He was fast thinking, able to engage with a wide variety of people, and had a ready made set of connections in Yemen without which I don’t think he could have gotten very far — they certainly had to bail him out many times. Plenty of implicit commentary on what life is like in a low trust society. Also plenty of implicit commentary on the role of women in Mokhtar’s community both within the U.S. and Yemen — there were no women in the story! The exceptions were those in supporting roles (someone’s wife, someone’s admin, and one group of stellar coffee workers located by a business partner’s mother — they were the only workers who didn’t steal!). I did appreciate that the political commentary (which I will not comment on) appeared to be impartial and not agenda based.
A note on process the author used to write this book (according to an SF Gate article). Apparently the work is based on extensive (hundreds of hours) interviews with Mokhtar, but additionally Eggars traveled to the various regions personally to retrace the route, went through his own Q-grading coffee course, and verified events through interviews with several of the key players.
Not my usual reading material — I had a lot of questions, particularly about people, and nobody to ask — but lots of well-documented information that I’m glad to now know.





